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One found with joy that the traditional Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves 2

14 ounces starchy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml neutral oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Whisk all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.